As surfers, we’re always on the lookout for the perfect waves. While we consistently keep an eye on the surf forecast, wind, and incoming swell, technology within the surfing industry has advanced so much that we can now find the perfect waves in the middle of a city, on a flat day, or when the beach is super blown-out.
Welcome to the world of wave pools! Wave pools require sophisticated and influential machinery so we can keep catching waves when the surf is non-existent. This is perfect if you're as obsessed with surfing as we are here at Wetsuit Centre!
After the Olympics, we’ve seen a spike in interest when it comes to these incredible setups. Even Kelly Slater has been quoted saying that he believes wave pools are the way forward for the next Olympic Games!
Our guide explores the science behind wave pools, how they work, their benefits, and general guidelines that will help you prepare for your first visit.
WHAT IS A WAVE POOL?
In basic terms, a wave pool is a swimming pool that artificially creates large waves. You can often find them in indoor and outdoor water parks, leisure centres, and centres specifically focused on surfing, such as Bristol Wave Pool. Wave pools imitate the movement of waves formed in the ocean, allowing individuals to surf within a controlled environment.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF WAVE POOLS?
Wave pools offer several brilliant benefits to surfers and bodyboarders, making them an appealing and worthwhile attraction to visit. Benefits of wave pools include:
- Wave pools can be controlled, creating various types of waves for beginners and expert surfers, from small mellow waves to fast barrelling tubes.
- Crowd-control. Wave pools only allow a certain number of people in the pool during each session, so it can never become ‘too crowded’. Each surfer takes turns to paddle for a wave, working through the lineup equally so everyone in the water has a fair opportunity to paddle for a certain number of waves during a specific time period.
- Encourage adaptive surfing, where individuals with disabilities can participate in surfing lessons and reap the benefits of the sport.
- It allows those who don’t live by the sea to experience the thrill of surfing and enjoy this brilliant sport!
- Consistent, clean waves.
- Safe and controlled space with lifeguards.
WAVE POOLS VS THE OCEAN
Although wave pools have a range of benefits, there are some differences between surfing in a wave pool and riding oceanic waves.
Wave pools are filled with fresh water, which is less dense and less buoyant. As a result, you don’t float as well as you would in salt water (which is denser). This can make surfing feel more difficult in a wave pool. Some surfers ride boards with more buoyancy in wave pools to combat this issue.
Wave pool sessions last for a specific time period, meaning you can only catch a limited number of waves. In contrast, in the sea, the world is your oyster, and if the conditions are right and it’s not too crowded, you can surf until your heart is content (or until it’s too dark to see).
There isn’t much of a paddle out in wave pools. Once your wave is over, surfers paddle in the channel, avoiding the break, so there is no need to duck dive or turtle roll - dreamy!
HOW DO WAVE POOLS WORK?
In the ocean, waves are created mainly by friction between wind and the water’s surface. This friction, in turn, develops swells, which are disturbances on the water’s surface. Gravitational forces and the motion of water also play a role in wave creation.
Collective water molecule ripples push neighbouring molecules in the same direction, passing the energy over while allowing them to stay in the same area. Down the line, this creates surfable waves for us to enjoy.
But how does a wave pool machine work? Wave pools work by replicating the movement of oceanic waves in a few different ways, which we explore below.
PISTON-POWERED PADDLE TECHNOLOGY
Wavegarden, a leading wave pool technology company based in Spain, uses this technology to generate surfable waves. If you’ve visited the Bristol Wave, this is the tech they use there!
1. The mechanism is located in the central part of the pool.
2. A hinged flap is lifted to displace water.
3. This forms a wave that travels on either side of the pool.
4. Computer-controlled paddles surrounding the diamond-shaped pool are then coordinated in a sweeping motion to create different types of waves, from rolling, mellow waves to steep, fast barrels.
PRESSURISED AIR
Similar to natural waves, smaller wave pools blow pressurised air onto the water's surface. American Wave Machines (AMS) uses this technology to create what they call perfect swell.
1. Air chambers are situated along the bottom of the pool.
2. The chambers are filled and emptied with air, which pushes the water above them to form waves.
3. The timing, intensity, and sequence of the air released can be customised to form various types of waves.
HYDROFOIL/PLOW
Founded by the one and only legendary Kelly Slater (Kelly Slate Wave Company), hydrofoil technology works slightly differently.
1. A large submerged foil shaped like a snowplough is placed on the bottom of the pool.
2. This foil is towed along the bottom of the pool by cable, which displaces water and generates a continuous wave.
3. As the foil travels beneath the water, it pushes water to either side of the wave pool, resulting in a perfectly peeling wave.
4. This results in long, two-way waves suitable for riding, offering both left and right breaks, similar to some of the top surf spots around the globe.
DO YOU NEED TO WEAR A WETSUIT IN A WAVE POOL?
Yes, unless you’re surfing in a hot climate, you will definitely need to wear a wetsuit in a wave pool, especially here in the UK, or especially during the winter!
HOW COLD IS A WAVE POOL?
Most wave pools aren’t heated, so the water temperature depends on the air temperature and climate. If you’re surfing a wave pool here in the UK, expect to wear a summer wetsuit during the summer and a thick winter one during the colder months.
ARE WAVE POOLS DANGEROUS?
Wave pools aren’t dangerous. As long as you know your limits, they’re perfectly safe. Wave pools like the Bristol Wave are lifeguarded, so you’re in safe hands. It’s important to know what you can do to book a suitable session.
Sessions are tailored for beginners, intermediates, and advanced surfers. So you really have nothing to worry about!
WAVE POOL RECOMMENDATIONS
BRISTOL WAVE
Featuring a surfing lagoon of 150m in length, the Bristol Wave is perfect for families and friends, no matter your surfing level (from beginners to experts) to enjoy. This centre offers a rental shop, cafe, lessons, and various waves to choose from.
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST WAVE POOL IN THE WORLD?
Let’s explore some of the largest artificial waves and wave pools in the world!
THE LONGEST WAVE POOL IN THE WORLD
Kelley Slater, a surfing legend, has designed one of the most famous wave pools yet. The Surf Ranch wave pool has been declared one of the longest in the world. It is 150 meters wide and clocks an impressive 45-second ride - perfect for pros!
THE LARGEST INDOOR POOL IN THE WORLD
The largest indoor wave pool is known as Blue Thunder, reaching a staggering 3,900 meters squared. Blue Thunder is located in Edmonton, Alberta.
The wave pool holds an impressive 3.3 million gallons of water, and you can catch waves as high as 1.4 meters!
THE LARGEST ARTIFICIAL WAVES IN THE WORLD
If you're looking for a wave park that can create the world's largest waves, head to Siam Park in the Canary Islands. There, you'll find artificial waves reaching as high as 3 meters.
For more information about surfing, check out the Wetsuit Centre blog, which is packed with valuable tips! Of course, if you need some new kit, be sure to browse our range of men’s and women’s winter wetsuits.
